blu ray player cleaner image
Camm
Today my tv decided that it wasn't going to be turned on by the remote control. I use the remote for my Samsung HT D5300 blu-ray home theatre, the original remote is currently unusable. I'm wondering where the sensor for the remote is on the tv, perhaps it needs to be cleaned. The remote itself still works with the blu-ray player.
Answer
Our Samsung sensor is on the front next to the t.v. power button.
No matter the t.v. the sensor will be on the front
Our Samsung sensor is on the front next to the t.v. power button.
No matter the t.v. the sensor will be on the front
What size battery back-ups would I need for my electronic equipment?
PA Fish Ma
Hello, I have an Integra amplifier, a blu ray dvd player, cable box and an Epson 1080p pro-cinema projector. I want to put my equipment on two battery back ups. I just want to be able to run everything long enough to have time to shut it down safely if the power goes out. I have a generator and this is the second reason why I want the battery back ups. If the power goes out and I have to run my generator I want to use the back ups to keep the power clean to my equipment. The projector is plugged into the ceiling so I would like to put it on it's own back up. What kind of battery back up would I need to run it for lets say 5 minutes without power? I want to put the Amp, DVD player and cable box on another back up. What kind of battery back up would I need to run it for the same? I am sure I would not have the volume all the way up during a power outage and I can keep it down low during generator use. My generator is plugged into my breaker box to run the entire house. The Integra specs are AV Receiver DTR-30.4, 8 speaker, Rated output power all channels 100 watts minimum continuous power per channel, 8 ohm loads, 2 channels driven from 20 Hz to 20 kHz, with a maximum total harmonic distortion of 0.08% (FTC). 7 ch x 160 W at 6 ohms, 1 kHz, 1 ch driven of 1% (IEC) Maximum effective output power 7ch x 175 W at 6 ohms, 1 kHz, 1 ch driven (JETTA) Dynamic Power IEC60268 short term maximum output power 240 W (3 ohm Front), 210 W (4 ohm Front), 120 W (8 ohm Front). Thanks in advance for helping me.
One Battery Back up is for The Amp, DVD player and Cable box. The other Battery Back up is for the Epson 1080p pro-cinema projector alone.
Answer
The specifications you gave were for the audio portions of the equipment and there is no direct correlation between those values and actual power drawn.
Each piece of equipment will have a plate or label indicating the power requirements of that device. Realize that they are maximum power ratings and not necessarily the actual power they draw in normal use. (I doubt you are cranking your amp at 7 x 175 watts in your living room)
Anyway, once you have those ratings, then us them to determine the size UPS you need.
I'll assume you're in the US and your power is 120 volts.
Let's say your DVD player says it takes 2 Amps. (that's high, but I'm using easy numbers)
That's 240 watts since power equals voltage times current.
It's likely that your DVD player is actually rated in Watts, and that's even easier since they did the math for you. The DVD player will actually be closer to 8 Watt, so you know.
I'll make up a number and say all your equipment power added up is 500 Watts.
You will need a UPS rated to handle that, so let's say you get a 800VA UPS.
(for simplicity and practicality, 1 VA = .7 Watt, even though it's not... close enough. This can't become and engineering lesson on power factor.)
So, now you know you need a 800VA UPS, but that's just the maximum amount of power it can provide, it doesn't tell you for how long. Power over time is energy, so now you want to know the energy capacity of the UPS since you know it's big enough to handle the load.
Remember the actual load is likely smaller than the maximum possible load in things like amplifiers. TVs pretty much draw constant power, as do DVD players when they're running, etc.
Unfortunately, manufacturers don't often come right out and say what you want to know and that the Wh rating. Watt-Hours are how many Watts can be provided in one hour.
If you found an 800Wh UPS, it could provide 400Watts for two hours. This is a large amount of energy for a battery and that battery would weigh about 100 lbs. +
That same UPS could provide enough energy to run the 8W DVD player for 100 hours, or close to 4 days.
Here's an example of how the manufacturer tells you how long you can run at particular power levels:
https://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=BR1300LCD
According to their chart... their 1300VA/780W UPS can supply 300 Watts for just over 20 minutes.
Or matrix like this where you select the wattage on the left and it calculates the run time for you.
http://www.apc.com/products/family/index.cfm?id=29&tab=models
Select 400W and see how many choices are eliminated. They're saying they can't supply 400W for any duration... they are undersized for the load.
You might find a 1500VA UPS that does half that because the 1500 rating is just for maximum load, not for how long it can supply that load. It's a numbers game and they're banking on the fact that the stupid consumers will just buy a 1500VA over a 1300VA since it's "bigger". It could actually have 1/2 the energy of the 1300VA... you can't know unless they tell you.
All things held equal (battery size in the UPS, mostly)... the more power you draw, the shorter the run time. And it is NOT linear, as you can see by the run-time curve from APC.
It's a lot of information... but if you want to properly size your UPS, you can't just guess.
Personally, I don't buy integrated units since you're stuck using their batteries and are limited to their energy capacities.
The specifications you gave were for the audio portions of the equipment and there is no direct correlation between those values and actual power drawn.
Each piece of equipment will have a plate or label indicating the power requirements of that device. Realize that they are maximum power ratings and not necessarily the actual power they draw in normal use. (I doubt you are cranking your amp at 7 x 175 watts in your living room)
Anyway, once you have those ratings, then us them to determine the size UPS you need.
I'll assume you're in the US and your power is 120 volts.
Let's say your DVD player says it takes 2 Amps. (that's high, but I'm using easy numbers)
That's 240 watts since power equals voltage times current.
It's likely that your DVD player is actually rated in Watts, and that's even easier since they did the math for you. The DVD player will actually be closer to 8 Watt, so you know.
I'll make up a number and say all your equipment power added up is 500 Watts.
You will need a UPS rated to handle that, so let's say you get a 800VA UPS.
(for simplicity and practicality, 1 VA = .7 Watt, even though it's not... close enough. This can't become and engineering lesson on power factor.)
So, now you know you need a 800VA UPS, but that's just the maximum amount of power it can provide, it doesn't tell you for how long. Power over time is energy, so now you want to know the energy capacity of the UPS since you know it's big enough to handle the load.
Remember the actual load is likely smaller than the maximum possible load in things like amplifiers. TVs pretty much draw constant power, as do DVD players when they're running, etc.
Unfortunately, manufacturers don't often come right out and say what you want to know and that the Wh rating. Watt-Hours are how many Watts can be provided in one hour.
If you found an 800Wh UPS, it could provide 400Watts for two hours. This is a large amount of energy for a battery and that battery would weigh about 100 lbs. +
That same UPS could provide enough energy to run the 8W DVD player for 100 hours, or close to 4 days.
Here's an example of how the manufacturer tells you how long you can run at particular power levels:
https://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=BR1300LCD
According to their chart... their 1300VA/780W UPS can supply 300 Watts for just over 20 minutes.
Or matrix like this where you select the wattage on the left and it calculates the run time for you.
http://www.apc.com/products/family/index.cfm?id=29&tab=models
Select 400W and see how many choices are eliminated. They're saying they can't supply 400W for any duration... they are undersized for the load.
You might find a 1500VA UPS that does half that because the 1500 rating is just for maximum load, not for how long it can supply that load. It's a numbers game and they're banking on the fact that the stupid consumers will just buy a 1500VA over a 1300VA since it's "bigger". It could actually have 1/2 the energy of the 1300VA... you can't know unless they tell you.
All things held equal (battery size in the UPS, mostly)... the more power you draw, the shorter the run time. And it is NOT linear, as you can see by the run-time curve from APC.
It's a lot of information... but if you want to properly size your UPS, you can't just guess.
Personally, I don't buy integrated units since you're stuck using their batteries and are limited to their energy capacities.
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